Jean-René de Fleurieu, an internationally renowned oil

Jean-René de Fleurieu: “We live under a legendary sky and forget it at every moment”. ALISSANDRE GERMAN – Alissandre Allemand

Jean-René de Fleurieu : ” Nous vivons sous un ciel de légende et l'oublions à chaque instant”. ALISSANDRE ALLEMAND – Alissandre Allemand

At the Château de Montfrin, in the Gard, the son of Marie-Claire Mendès France and ex-travel companion of Agnès b., an epicurean and simple lord, cultivates in an innovative way, on the edge of his vines, olive trees which produce world-renowned oils.

Here, neither bugle nor trumpet. Even fewer rounded torsos like roosters parading to syrupy cheers. Jean-René de Fleurieu, the 72 sweet and authentic springs, shares his passions and successes with refreshing humility.

It's been a week since the essential Flos Olei, world guide to extra virgin oil, signed by the gastronomic critic ;Marco Oreggia, places it among the best international olive growers. By awarding the superb score of 96/100 to his oil from Moulin des Ombres. 

Son of Marie-Claire Mendès France, journalist and presswoman, grandson of Robert Servan-Schreiber, co-founder of Les Echos, and Suzanne Crémieux, who was senator of Gard, he was also married to Agnès b. and his companion in his remarkable adventure in fashion. But more than anything, he was the one who loved “working the land morning and evening around the property” as a kid. Understand the Château de Montfrin, the property in which it resides and whose oldest tower dates from the 11th century. Inherited from his grandfather "who bought it to seduce (his) grandmother, who lived in Remoulins". Walls in which Saint Francis of Assisi and King Saint Louis stayed in the 13th century, one before going to Morocco, the other before embarking to Aigues-Mortes for the crusades. Sorry. 

110 hectares of olive trees in organic cultivation

With his 35 employees, he watches over 110 hectares of olive trees and 130 hectares of organically grown vines and produces 13 different vintages of wine. Sober nectars and without embellishment. "Pure and simplicity. No unnecessary pomp. As his look. He receives us dressed all in black, felt bucket hat screwed on a silver mane, leather shoes without socks and black jacket with an old-fashioned and refined elegance. by pick-up are enough to reach his land. Olive trees as far as the eye can see, whose tender greens illuminate this cottony winter day. Vines too, bare and gnarled, waiting for more beautiful days to dress in sapphire shades.

It's been more than 20 years since the mill took place in the old hovel installed on the olive grove. Functionality and efficiency. Lost on the confines of a little-used country road, the place is not designed for visiting or trading. But the incubator from which some 80,000 liters of yellow gold emerge each year. There is no question for Vincent, the mill maker, of twiddling his thumbs while listening to the family of cockatiels that live at the entrance. This Wednesday, January 3, he carefully and patiently filtered the huge vats of olive oil using a millefeuille of cotton sheets. nbsp;Before storing them for bottling. For the olive grower, nothing beats the oil of the year. "It's like a fruit juice; the longer you take it to consume it, the more it loses its aromas, flavors and benefits", explains Jean-René de Fleurieu. "In my opinion, the best thing is to buy olive oil packaged in opaque bottles in small quantities. Then consume them quickly, within a year at most.  

Sobriety and simplicity

A clarification that few consumers of olive oils from Château de Montfrin will be able to confirm. The latter have enjoyed undeniable success. They have been at the top of the rankings and professional tests for several years. A bet that few local farmers would have bet on 30 years ago. Curious by nature and electrified by developments in know-how, Jean-René de Fleurieu did not hesitate in 1996 to cultivate olive trees using trellising, as we work vines. « I started planting olive trees thanks to the knowledge of an extraordinary farmer, Jean-Michel Borgeaud. He had an exceptional orchard and had already thought about a high density planting system like in Spain or Argentina. Initially, there was no machine for picking; we cobbled together one that allowed us to pass between the rows of olive trees. » 

Revolutionary

Today, there are four of this kind in France, and in Montfrin as elsewhere, this vegetal cordon which, once, seemed imagined by a weirdo has become revolutionary. The yields are there and the advantages of picking mechanically are valuable. Moreover, over the past two years, the Union des domaine oléicoles de France was created in Montfrin and brings together 10 producers from the region who work using the same method. And which places the group as the leading producer of olive oil nationally with some 250 tonnes produced per year, the quality of which no longer needs to be demonstrated. One of them is now recognized as one of the most formidable and delicious in the world. 

The Château de Montfrin by Marco Oreggia

Present in the Flos Olei guide for numerous editions, the Château de Montfrin continues to improve. It is an interesting operation founded in 1996 by Jean-René de Fleurieu, a true pioneer of quality olive growing. Located in the heart of Languedoc, it can boast of a vast estate of 270 hectares, of which 110 hectares are intended for olive trees with 150,000 trees of a wide range of varieties. During the last harvest, 5,000 quintals of olives were produced, which is equivalent to a yield of 700 hectoliters of oil. We recommend the very good Extra Virgin Moulin des Ombres from Organic Farming, which is an intense clear golden yellow color with slight reflections. Its aroma is ample and round, with vegetal notes of artichoke, chicory and lettuce, accompanied by notes of aromatic herbs, notably mint and rosemary. Its taste is complex and elegant, with a spicy black pepper flavor and a strong almond finish.

The bitterness is distinct and the spiciness is precise and harmonious. It will be ideal with farro starters, salmon carpaccio, tomato salads, baked potatoes, bean puree, asparagus pasta, mussels au gratin, cuttlefish compote, poultry or l& #39;baked lamb and goat cheese.

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