Narrow fjords and blue glaciers: Patagonia, Chile

Narrow fjords and blue glaciers: Patagonia, Chile

To the glaciers in Chilean Patagonia can’t get neither the air nor the land. They can be seen only during the cruise to the fjords. Decided on this navigation only one shipping company.

25 APR 2019 18:37


Узкие фьорды и синева ледников: Патагония, Чили

Узкие фьорды и синева ледников: Патагония, Чили

It turned out that the ship is a mobile network and the Internet. “Impossible!” I thought in a panic. Three days without communication! However, the boat has a satellite phone for emergencies, but if it will fall on me or the ice will reveal long-standing appendicitis. And he will definitely reveal, because it is obvious that in such inhumane conditions is not able to survive any one person.

If only this person – not Kochilas. Many years ago a family of fishermen from Greece moved to Chile with his two boys, Constantino and Atanasio Kotsifali. They settled in the South of the country in Patagonia. Constantine went to sea, Atanasio went to school and was friends with a girl from class named Mimi. Once Constantine saw a friend of his brother – and was gone.

He sought her for years, but Mimi turn up his nose. Constantine did not give up. He included her in the sea and showed her the narrow fjords, where the harsh guards are high cliffs and drain into the ocean thin waterfalls. Where dolphins race with the sunlight. Where nesting on stone ledges, cormorants, nervously twisting a silly long-billed heads. Where imposing sea lions substitute the sun shining belly. Where the rainbow was snagged on a rock and welcomes those wishing to see the glacier. Where the stones are dressed in caps of moss ochre, and they grow berry “devil’s cherry”. Where in the sky menacingly hovers the Andean Condor. And where a huge wall with sharp towers are glaciers all shades of blue, from deep blue to barely discernable blue veins in bright white. If you listen, you’ll hear the harsh creaking of the ancient ice breath.

Constantino put these treasures to the feet of the beloved and shared his dream to build a ship that could pass through the narrow fjords, is full of dangerous icebergs, and bring people here to show them all this incredible beauty. In which a simple fisherman, it seems, was in love with no less than Mimi.

They got married. Gave birth to six children and together founded the shipping company. Good luck – God real mad men – helped them, and now have three Scorpios cruise liner. Captain Constantino Kochilas personally paved the route for them. He went to the fjords and built his business all his life, until he died 9 years ago – on Board designed Korab-La. And doña Mimi, which for 90 years (and which we for the eyes called doña Mimimi), still goes to sea several times a week to personally monitor the quality of team work and the splendor of cakes served with tea. And to icebreaker behalf of my husband to approach the glacier, the name of her husband, and there, following the unchanging ritual of the company, to raise in his honor a glass of whiskey with ice age 40,000 years.

This story was told to me by captain Louis Kochilas, the son of Constantine and Mimi, who now leads the ships through the fjords of southern Patagonia. We talked all night. I asked if he had a dream. “I want to become the spirit of these places. Want to inspire sailors, out on the fjords. And that my name gave people hope that all the hard way sooner or later will lead them to the pier, home. That’s my dream”.

In the morning we returned to Puerto Natales, from which came three days ago. Turning off the recorder, I found that the phone re-appeared icon of mobile communication. With her back instagram, Google, Facebook, Amazon. Unnecessary things, we despair, throw in the hole in the soul of modern man, which formed, when left a thirst for adventure, risky pursuit of happiness, the joy of the discoverer, a real passion, the sea breeze and the breath of eternity.

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