No lemon, or the Kitchen, South Sardinia
Wine dressing, cheese, and female post-punk in the store
February 21, 2019 at 23:28
Billionaires on the Costa Smeralda is so strongly associated with Sardinia, many don’t even come to mind: elite coast — only a thin strip on the map of the island. Local is at hand: wild forests, deserted beaches, white dunes, vineyards and mountain pastures — all that remains intact. South Sardinia — the land of pink flamingos and tart Pecorino, stubborn centenarians and ridiculously cheap villas. Real unkempt Italy, where friendship is everything, and money is almost nothing, which does not consider time and a lot of delicious food. The best way to understand it is to taste.
EXPLORE THE LOCAL MARKET
The plane arrives in the capital of Sardinia — Cagliari. It is the largest city on the island, and before I could escape to the wild beaches, you should know him. Along with the ancient fortress, Royal Palace and numerous churches, landmark: the market of San Benedetto. This is the best place to experience Sardinian food. There’s no cafe, but you can’t go hungry.
Cuisine of Sardinia — a textbook of the history of the island: it has absorbed the influence of all who claimed these lands. Moors, Spaniards, Genoa, Pisa, Tuscany and Savoy — read recipes in the tradition of all invaders. Metropolitan kitchen mainly marine shellfish and fish assigned to the lower floor of the market. The fishermen are willing to treat bottarga (dried mullet ROE), learn to differentiate lobsters by sex (girls are more of the abdomen, and the boys have longer claws), and to properly prepare spaghetti with sea urchins and artichokes. A separate attraction — tasting mussels: they’re trying to eat alive.
But the fish here is dominated not always. More recently life on the island was concentrated in the mountains: the sea promised danger as pirates. So the kitchen was herding: juicy vegetables, beans, bread, goat and sheep cheese — all this is dedicated to the upper floor of the market. If you ask for the eggplant, you do not understand: any vegetables and fruits from the seller of the five varieties. Some oranges are more juicy, others more sweet, some even red, you can buy everything immediately and set up a tasting. The shelves are full of various greens: if you decide to marinate the boar in Myrtle or make pasta with turnip tops. But the shepherds eat meat rarely on the market it is presented more modest.
The market runs from 7 to 14 every day except Sunday, but it is necessary to come as early as possible: by 11 am the best goods are bought. And don’t forget to return to the market before leaving and bottarga, and cheeses you will be Packed in vacuum. On Tuesdays there is an outdoor market in Pula: if I don’t want to go to the capital, you can buy everything here.
ENJOY A PICNIC ON THE BEACH
Buying in the market of lobsters and oysters, is to go straight to the wild beach. Life hack: the seller will pack marine reptiles in the ice, so you have about an hour on choice of location. In the off-season (i.e., anytime except July and August), no people anywhere, the water is always perfect, so are defined landscape: today a picnic under a blossoming Mimosa tree, in a secluded Cove or on the windy dunes?
The best beaches are in the vicinity of the village of Kia, it is there to book a Villa. Bay Kia is a 750-metre sand dunes the color of apricot, winter is one of the best surf spots of Sardinia. The road to the Bay lies past the picturesque salt lagoons populated by flamingos, and leads to the beach of Monte Cogoni. In a nearby Bay more sheltered beach of Campana Dune (landmark — adjacent to the beach Golf club); families with children appreciate it for its shallow sea. Further South the most beautiful beach of Su Giudeu to it from the Parking is through a narrow wooden path through another lagoon with flamingos. Secluded white beach of Cala Cipolla (150 m), surrounded by pine trees and thick juniper, perfect for snorkeling, it is located on the way to a viewing point — the lighthouse on the promontory of Capo Spartivento. A 10-minute drive from Kia Tuerredda beach, is especially beautiful in spring, during the flowering of Mimosa. All these beaches combines the ancient Roman road, somewhere guessed her remains.
Raccuglia seafood, remember: no lemon! Fresh oysters don’t need it, only distracts from the taste. But local white from the indigenous Vermentino certainly didn’t hurt.
TO GO ON A DIET OF CENTENARIANS
In Sardinia more than a century residents per capita than anywhere else in Europe. And both men and women live equally long — this does not exist anywhere in the world. One of the important reasons of longevity — a particular diet.
Fearing invaders from the sea, Sardis used to the mountain way of life. Unlike the Mediterranean diet, based on fish and olive oil, is dominated by fruits, vegetables, beans and coarse bread. Here the artichokes a delicacy and banal side dish along with potatoes. And the main source of protein — sheep and goat cheeses. Cows in the mountains uncomfortable, and it’s for the best: goat milk is much healthier. Sardis meat eating holidays — the cattle needed for milk, but every day I drink a liter of the local Cannonau (vino nero — it is very dark).
So, to go on a diet, have to get up off the beach and go to the mountains: physical activity is one of the pillars of longevity.
Take a standard shepherd’s set: crispy flatbread pane carasau (they can safely escape to the mountains — they are kept six months), young or aged cheese, Pecorino Sardo (pecora — sheep) and spicy sausages salsiccia sarda. Option for the brave — cheese Katsu to manganese: a local delicacy with live larvae, but this is a seasonal pleasure. But cheese is always female: women are doing it in one mountain village.
Not to drag the mountain a glass bottle, you can call on the wine refills Metropark Spa (Cagliari): from the column with a gun the wine is poured into any container, from plastic bottles to cans. The picnic will not only be honored after the climb, but unforgettable if you arrange it on Nuraghe — megalithic tower II Millennium BC: they are scattered all over the island high up in the mountains, overgrown with lavender and orchids. Next to Kia Nuraghe — on simple route’antico cammino dei carbonai near the village of Domus de Maria.
LISTEN TO POST-PUNK IN THE STORE
But the main reason for the longevity is not in food and even in ecology. Scientists have proven: the secret centenary Sardis — live chat. People of all ages are actively involved in the life of the family, the table always several generations. The buyer leaves the seller without a pleasant conversation, the neighbors are friendly and laugh a lot. But with strangers Sardis shy, and therefore cannot be motivated by money: the family and friends are always more important than work. With the influx of tourists in centenarians, there is a “funeral season”: it is a universal excuse for a day off.
Charismatic Filippo — the owner of a vegetable shop in the old town of Pula. He clearly intends to live a very long time: his smile, it attracts people and knows all the regular customers. He waves his arms, jokes, sings, juggles a funny hat, hence leaving not only with a bundle of wild asparagus or bunch of radishes, but with a smile from ear to ear. On the walls pictures of his wife and quotes from Rudolf Steiner, shapely tomatoes adorn the background of a naked sir. A work of art — instagram Filippo (1, 2, 3). In free vegetables time, he enjoys music in the shop is a drum kit, sounds Italian alternative, post-punk and hardrock.
A great way to see how socializers Sardis, — to visit national holiday. And it’s not a tourist attraction: visitors are mostly local. Festivals happen every month, and the majority — gastronomy. Then you and the tea of cannabis, and Myrtle liqueur, and much more.
TO ARRANGE IN-VILLA DINING
In the South of Sardinia is all done through people and friendship with someone local is the key to good travel. But Sardis rarely come into contact with foreigners. There is a solution: find gregarious owner of the Villa, which not only will arrange a warm welcome, but also will acquaint with interesting people.
Rafael is a man of peace: his mother is Swiss, father is Spanish, he studied in London, was married to a French girl and half my life in love with Italy. In the South of Sardinia, he was struck by the untouched nature and authentic way of life. An experienced entrepreneur, he immediately saw a huge untapped potential for ecotourism and all the travelers really had no place to stay, and Sardis were in no hurry to share their secrets. The RAF bought a house overlooking the sea, made friends with the locals and began to develop the rental business.
RAF — a real find. He knows where the best ricotta a chilometro zero (produced at zero miles from here), when the fishermen arrive with their catch and where to try baked lamb and stewed goat (they are prepared for mountain meat tough). Raph instantly solves any questions on the Villa and generously shares his knowledge about the island. And of course, he can arrange in-Villa dinner: for example, to prepare crown a meat dish of Sardis — suckling pig roasted on a spit with leaves of Myrtle. In the South of Sardinia, it is customary to speak of food about food, and RAF — an indispensable interlocutor: under the red from the indigenous Cannonau he will tell you about local winemakers about the tomato farm and the goats the shepherd of Eros.
Raphael is fluent in many languages, but Russian yet. To work with Russian clients he helps Anna: the project is called “Sardinia for friends.” Cosy Villa, care, responsibility and hospitality of the owners — a rare combination of southern Sardinia. By the way, Anna and RAF are planning a gastronomic journey from 22 to 30 March, there is still space!
TO LEARN HOW TO COOK PERDULI
The best in the world perduli — Sardinian cakes with sweet stuffing — prepare Caterina, mistress of the bakery in the Pool (Pasticceria di Pula). In form they resemble the Karelian wickets puckered in the shape of a sun, except instead of rye cookie monster finest crispy dough in pork fat, and the potatoes are tender blend of goat ricotta, orange zest and saffron. Once it was the Easter sweetness, now a signature dessert of the whole island. Catherine is not hiding family recipes and is prepared to share with nice people.
In addition Pardo, Katerina many other local sweets: aranzada (candy orange peel, honey and almonds), amaretti (lemon-almond cookies), pane ‘e saba (something like gingerbread with boiled wine). And of course, culurgiones — long ravioli (like our dumplings) stuffed with potatoes and mint.
Hours of operation at shop no: Caterina works when it wants to, which is very typical for Sardinia. For parului better to come to the 11: they are still warm and available. Buying up half the shop, you can enjoy a cappuccino at a bar across the street.
TO BE FULL BEFORE LEAVING
In southern Sardinia, all at home — even in the capital, where people know each other on the streets, and the police run away at the sight of tourists (want easier to Park — come when the ferry arrives: local evaporate). Good restaurants are also homemade: the best dinners, where, without the advice of friends will not come. For example, Ophelia.
When her husband-a fisherman retired, Ophelia came up with a new source of income is cooking on the outskirts of the city. Of the morning’s catch it, cook family recipes and sold on tap through the kitchen window. It seemed that the fish in Cagliari will not surprise you, but fish industrial fishing and caught her husband by hand — the quality is not comparable. Cooking was in such a demand that Ophelia opened a small café.
Ophelia, as a caring grandmother, not let anybody hungry. Salad of octopus, burrida of leopard sharks (pieces of fish with sauce of the liver with nuts and wine vinegar), salt cod in red sauce with capers (another dish on the road: the sailors took a cod in long trips) — the portions are huge, and it’s only snacks. Followed by the first dish — pasta: fregola with clams. This is something like a risotto, Moroccan couscous, graphic illustration of the fact that southern Sardinia is closer to Africa than to mainland Italy. When the guests no longer fit for close table, Ophelia makes the main dish is a hefty lavraki baked with potatoes and artichokes, and after another fish in oil.
And let Gastronomia del mare the most modest interiors, no coffee, and even toilets, but there is something more: an honest home cooking and genuine hospitality. The non-profit side of life — this is what makes southern Sardinia’s beautiful.
Which season is better?
Sardinia is a rare resort where well always. Winter is perfect for surfing. Spring — the period of rapid flowering of the island. Summer seduces with its flawless beaches and guaranteed sun non-stop (in June anybody around here, but in July and August is crowded). Autumn is the best time for family holidays: the sea is still warm, and prices are plummeting, and the people there. The local swimming season lasts only a couple of months, but the Russians usually swim from may to November.