Saturday Wine: Renewed Classism
|MISE À DAY
Belonging to the Amoreau family since 2012 – the same family that has owned the famous Château Le Puy since… 1610 –, the Closerie Saint Roch is their “new” playground. A 16-hectare vineyard in the village of Puisseguin, near near Saint-Émilion, whose clay-loamy soils on limestone base are between 80 and 106 m above sea level. Interesting fact: the vineyard was initially planted with Mourvèdre and Colombard, then replanted at the beginning of the 20th century with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a little Cabernet Sauvignon. Everything is conducted in organic farming and vinified without chemical inputs. After fermentation by infusion in vats, the wine will stay 24 months in old barrels before being bottled without filtration.
A blend dominated by Merlot and completed by Cabernet Franc (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). We guess a touch of reduction at the opening, which quickly dissipates to give way to catchy flavors of cherry, raspberry, leather and balsamic. On the palate, we feel a connection with a Saint-Émilion cru through the elegance and finesse of the fruity structure. Tannins of good definition and well integrated into the whole which seems energetic. Long and juicy, it is easy to approach while possessing the necessary attributes to improve for ten years in your reserve.
Closerie Saint Roc 2019, vin de France, $49.75 – Code SAQ 14642047 – 13% – Bio – Nature
★★★1⁄2 $$$$
Note that the estate now produces two parcel cuvées on the vineyard: – Les Noyers ( $95 – SAQ code 15080605 – 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot) – Les Pins ($113.50 – SAQ code 15080429 – 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Franc)
Two wines produced in very small quantities that I have not tasted, but which should delight connoisseurs who wish to go further with the wines of the Amoreau family.
Legend
★ Correct
★★ Good
★★★ Very good
★★★★ Excellent
★★★★★ Outstanding
More stars than dollars: worth its price.
As many stars as dollars: worth its price.
Fewer stars than dollars : the wine is expensive.