The grape harvest has kicked off at the Domaine de la Plaine in Vic-la-Gardiole
Aux côtés de Christophe Sala, la joyeuse équipe de vendangeurs du domaine de la Plaine. Midi Libre – Patrice Espinasse
Straddling the towns of Vic-la-Gardole and Frontignan, the Domaine de la Plaine has begun to harvest the bunches of dry muscat. The grape harvest has begun.
The sun is not yet shining in all its rays. But already, the temperature is starting to rise between the vines. It is 8 o'clock on Tuesday, August 13, at the Domaine de la Plaine. Since the day before, a small team has been working to pick the bunches of dry muscat grapes.
Because here we go! In this family estate of about twenty hectares located between Vic-la-Gardiole and Frontignan, along the D613, the grape harvest began at the same time as last year: only three days later than in 2023.
Water, a cap, closed shoes “and above all a good dose of motivation": there are a dozen of them bustling around between the rows. Only locals, from Aniane, Frontignan, Lavérune, Sète, Montpellier… There are young people and old people, a few newcomers and regulars.
Elsa's firsts, Alain's fifteenths
Elsa, an 18-year-old from Frontignan, discovers the activity.“My back hurts a bit but it's still okay. You just have to remember not to forget any grape clusters because there aren't a lot of them.”
It's just that the cocktail of rain, heat and wind has brought back the dreaded mildew. “It's the first time in 25 years that there's been so much,”60~/em> notes Christophe Sala. The east of the appellation was a little more affected than Frontignan, which experienced less humidity. We could have 20 to 30% loss of harvest. But the sanitary conditions are good elsewhere. And the grapes at 13-13.5 degrees have a clear and perfumed juice that suggests a good vintage."
So the team of harvesters tries not to leave any bunches. The old ones are used to it. Alain, 74, is the oldest."I must be on my fifteenth harvest. I like it, the atmosphere is nice. And it keeps me in shape."
A bucket, a pruner and as soon as we see a cluster, we cut!
Next to him, Maurice started a marathon. Retired from National Education, he will follow the harvest of the Domaine de la Plaine with volunteering at the Paralympic Games before returning to the vineyards for the grape harvest, this time in Champagne. "You have to stay in shape", slips the Frontignanais, who doesn't look 70.
The merry troop wastes no time. Christophe gave the roadmap to the twelve cutters, the bouncer and the outfielder – him — : “A bucket, a pair of pruning shears and as soon as you see a bunch, you cut it! It's also about moving forward at the same time in the rows. “
One person per row, twelve rows harvested simultaneously: the harvest is progressing at a good pace. The 10:30 a.m. break will be welcome as the 30 degrees are not far away and the sun has become more generous.
Satellite vintages behind the immutable muscat
The end clap at noon. The annual ritual will continue for a few more days. But at the Domaine de la Plaine, as elsewhere, not everything is immutable. To diversify and adapt to the market, the historic Muscat appellation of Frontignan is now accompanied by more modern satellite vintages.
Christophe Sala designs eight of them, including a sparkling wine with which he makes cocktails, and the Robuste (*), this flagship vintage aged for two years in vats, one year in Dame-Jeanne and one year in oak barrels. “We have also started to make a little rosé. And for the first time this year, we will also produce red with the Grenache, Carignan and Syrah from the hectare of vines planted five years ago.” But always in addition to the essential muscat.
(*) In homage to the 80-gun ship of the line of the French Imperial Navy, nicknamed the « Vauban of the Navy », scuttled off Frontignan on October 26, 1809 to avoid capture by the English.
Summer events a tuna above
Next year, Domaine de la Plaine will celebrate 30 years of wine production. Created by Francis and Marie-Noëlle Sala in 1988 on plots where the grapes were brought to the cooperative winery, the estate only started making wine seven years later, in 1995. "My parents had to create everything: the cellar, the vats, the press… They started from scratch”, explains Christophe Sala. Remaining a small family structure privileging selling at the estate, La Plaine organizes a series of events every summer: guinguette-style concerts, open-air cinema (for 18 years) and even “a chef in the vineyards” meetings with the Frontignan restaurant La cave à Nico, which offers red tuna. Next cutting on September 6.
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