We tested for you: salty or sweet, fougasse with grattons and Aigues-Mortes

Whether sweet or savory, it is possible to eat fougasse for any occasion in the Gard. Over the ages, two of them have even become institutions: fougasse aux grattons and fougasse d'Aigues-Mortes.

"If a baker in Nîmes doesn't sell fougasse aux grattons, it's because he's just arrived from Dunkirk", announces Frédéric Alle, owner of the Alle bakery in Nîmes. Of course, it's a caricature, but it shows that this fougasse is one of the monuments in the ancient city.

From Lunel to Alès, via Arles to Nîmes, fougasse aux grattons is everywhere. “It's a must, many here prefer it to the croissant, even to dip in coffee“, the baker continues. The grattons are the fatty parts of pork. Once candied, they become very crispy. Frédéric carefully selects these pieces of fried pork so that they don't break his dough. “For the fougasse, we use special grattons that come from Isère.” There are two types of fougasse with grattons, the first is made with bread dough, the second prefers puff pastry. One is soft, the other very crispy, but both are the result of ancestral know-how.

Fougasses with grattons, a must-try in Nîmes. Midi Libre – Noa Roche

This product was originally very popular with farmers, who took some with them every morning, especially during the grape harvest. An old story, heard by "Fred" tells that when the new harvesting machines arrived, the bakers complained: "they don't eat fougasses, they". Fougasse aux grattons is generally more popular with the people of Gard than with tourists, “but you can't say you don't like it until you've tasted it, warns Frédéric. One day, some Americans passing through came to taste the fougasse aux grattons. They came back to the bakery until they returned to the USA.”

It's been 22 years now since Fred took over this bakery on Rue Fresque, which was already operating in the early 1900s, making it one of the oldest in the city center. The years go by, but the observation remains the same: the fougasse aux grattons is still a hit.

From meal to dessert

About thirty kilometers from Nîmes, another tradition reigns supreme: the fougasse of Aigues-Mortes. It is even possible that the Emperor Augustus may have already tasted this delicacy, “of which traces have been found from the Gallo-Roman era, even if we cannot establish its exact origins”, explains Laurent Poitavin, of the Poitavin pastry shop in Aigues-Mortes. In any case, this fougasse made with brioche dough, orange blossom, sugar and butter is still the pride of the Aigues-Mortais.

Marie Lou and Mélanie from the Poitavin pastry shop. Midi Libre – MiKAEL ANISSET

Historically, it was made in the city at Christmas time, very quickly established as the star of the thirteen desserts. "It was the inhabitants who took the ingredients to the bakers to put them on bread dough and then bake them“, says Laurent. These sweet treats are no longer limited to the end-of-year celebrations, even if “the Aigues-Mortais perpetuate the tradition” and are suitable for all events and gourmet snacks. “My grandchildren love them! You can't miss them here.“, enthuses Patricia, who came to buy a fougasse to treat the youngest. “In general, when people return home from all over France, they bring back fougasse d’Aigues Morte, some tell me that they would be killed if they forgot it“, laughs Laurent.

The history between the Poitavin family and the fougasse d'Aigue Morte is not new. Laurent's great-grandfather started working with the dough in 1932. The recipe was then passed down from generation to generation until it ended up in the hands of Laurent, who was not destined for it: “I studied differently, but fougasse caught up with me“. In almost a century, the recipe has been modified and improved, such as when the bread dough was replaced by brioche dough to make it more delicious. “The secret is experience and working the dough, always meticulous“, thinks the pastry chef.”The best time to eat this fougasse”? Laurent thinks. “When they come out of the oven, but it's also good to take it and eat it on the beach!”” No matter where you are, be sure that you will always find someone in Aigues-Mortes to praise this inexhaustible fougasse.

The famous fougasse of Aigues-Mortes. Midi Libre – MiKAEL ANISSET