Famous Ukrainian designer Yulia Magdych gave an exclusive interview to “Today”
On the eve of the Grand national show of embroidery “ВышиванкаDAY”, organized by the TV channel “Ukraine” and “Today” (to be held may 16 at the Postal square in Kiev, starting at 8:00), the famous Ukrainian designer Yulia Magdych gave an exclusive interview to “Today”.
Yulia Magdych said about how best to wear shirts, much time is spent on their creation, about the competitors, who openly copy her style, and star customers, acceptable to the surprises on stage.
— Julia, have you always dreamed of a professional designer? And why embroidery was the basis of all your collections?
— Embroidery formed the basis of my collections because it’s the DNA of the Ukrainian people, undeniable beauty. And I feel myself, so to speak, by the operator of this beauty. Regarding the choice of profession, I think that a very low percentage of people in the world surely knows from an early age, what he will do in life.
Yulia Magdych / Photo: from personal archive
Despite the fact that from childhood he loved to draw, I have done all the same to law school and, according to the teachers, showed great promise. But quite unexpectedly even for himself, at the age of 19, was in the fashion business. Apparently, already for a long time (smiles).
Now writing a thesis at the University named after Shevchenko in political science, soon to dream in addition to business and teach. Returning to the embroidered shirts, I want to remember those funny moments when I about ten years ago came out in embroidery to walk (in our family it was always made to wear shirts during the holidays), that my outfit was attracting everyone’s attention, even to the point that I was pointing.
There is not one woman in the world, which would not be appropriate for embroidery
Now to wear a shirt in order. And what I and our company to this a little bit involved, I’m so proud. By the way, during the revolution of dignity, our nation has never felt a very strong unity, visual symbol of which was the embroidery. Despite the fact that the consequences of the Revolution, as we now see, to put it mildly, very controversial, the fact that the Patriotic enthusiasm in the hearts of each of us it is hard to deny.
— That is, you directly see the impact of the Revolution on the growing popularity of your brand?
— After the events on Ukraine, in principle, have been actively speaking around the world: expressed support and participation. It is true now, often, alas, still not a plus sign, because the level of corruption we can compete is that of Somalia.
Comfortable ethnic style: choosing the perfect running shoes under embroidery
And the popularity of our brand has also been influenced by the fact that our clothes are very wearable. I can confidently say that there is not one woman in the world, which would not be appropriate for embroidery. And when girls and women are tasted and realized that the embroidery can feel more confident in themselves, they are hooked on it like a drug (laughs).
Wearing a dress shirt, you can’t even apply makeup because embroidery is definitely beneficial to highlight and brighten your face.
Yulia Magdych / Photo: from personal archive
The popularity of embroidery in the world I explain that they resonate with all peoples. We have many clients from the Middle East, and we are often told that our work is very similar to their national embroidery. Floral, weave, columns resonate with so many cultures.
Abroad a lot of people wear our dresses, but I’m not sure they even know about such a word as embroidery
Ukrainian embroidery has about 200 (!) a variety of techniques. Because of this diversity, our embroidery can easily integrate into the cultural stereotype of any nation. Abroad a lot of people wear our dresses, but I’m not sure they even know about such a word as embroidery.
Of course, we are engaged in educational activities and at every opportunity voiced it, but not all can remember the foreign word for themselves.
A year ago I saw information that you are collaborating with 34 countries (including USA, France, Germany, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, UK) that sells your collection. Today, this number is the same?
— Approximately, Yes, but you need to count, because every season the situation is changing. Let’s say, on average we work with 34 countries. This season, for example, we first went to Greece, including the now fashionable resort — Mykonos island. But, naturally, we look to the future and the future is not in a normal offline
stores, not at the point of sale, — the future of the Internet.
Yulia Magdych / Photo: from personal archive
The percentage of transactions online is steadily increasing, at a time when the once proud and impregnable Department stores slowly but surely marching to bankruptcy. The Millennials, to which I belong, have reached the age and income level to win over significant market share. And that this generation prefers online shopping and shopping centers sees more as a place of entertainment: walking with children, a cafe or a movie.
To still slightly to lift the veil to the world of fashion, will tell you that all the fashion brands are working in the following way. You bring his collection to Paris or Milan, where for a week flock buyers (buyers) from all over the world and place orders. Naturally, at wholesale prices.
The Millennials prefer online shopping and shopping centers considers as a place of entertainment
The main task of the designer is to make Bayer came to him. And there is an important even such tricks as the address of the showroom because the buyer is painted literally on minutes, and go along the tubes to the area of the city where the asphalt ends, it simply will not, even if you were a genius in the flesh. To understand the numbers, the disposal of such a person may be budget for all it purchases designers from 100 thousand dollars to several million.
Yulia Magdych / Photo: from personal archive
And if you get at least a small piece of this pie depends on the designer and his team. In the field of pret-a-porter wholesale contract can even be considered a deal for only five or six products, but even in this case, the price to the buyer will remain wholesale.
For example, in order for your collection appeared in a prestigious store, or to establish a business relationship for the sake of future, more lucrative deals. In General, as in any industry, we also have our own little tricks.
— What is your most favorite and least favorite lesson in your work?
— People who work in light industry, but what can I say — in any industry — will understand me when I say that the most unloved — the necessity of constant control over the production process. I can’t disconnect from it, even at night I see dreams about embroidery, breakdowns of machinery, and sometimes about how I got lost in the corridors of the factory where we shoot the room (laughs).
Fashion in General is very stressful. I really hope that when I have children they will choose another profession. We now employs 50 people. In the fashion business our production is made rather to be called “laboratory”. So, the lab we have two: in Kiev and in my native Lviv.
Fashion in General is very stressful
We produce everything ourselves: from A to Z. When other designers usually give the collection to the outsourcing, is not burdened manufacturing processes. In this format, such a model is impossible due to the very complex technological process.
I also want to brag that I managed to gather not only an amazing team of professionals and like-minded people. In high season it happens that you have to work at night or on the weekend, in the super, and my team always supports me — and we pass the orders in time.
How to look stylish embroidery: a compilation of actual images
Almost all employees who work in the company work from the beginning. Away from us — except that in the decree. Here we gradually move on to hobby — to be creative. Creativity is distilled pleasure that is worth the sleepless nights. I also feel great joy from communicating with clients. Receiving the feedback, we are able to improve on what is working.
— The average amount of time spent on one shirt — a day, a week, a month? And how basically do you get your ideas for new drawings?
— I love flowers and my collections, I guess it shows (smiles). So I always, wherever I was, always very carefully examine, study, including their scent. The image that is born — always sensual — and it is impossible to make the picture “tasty” on the basis of only one picture.
And that’s when the feeling of the upcoming dresses born — here it is important to outline, because it can instantly evaporate. In the process of implementation do not always get what I imagine will namecity, just technologically, but in my head no one to climb not. So sometimes I can up to three months to nurture the idea of only one thing, after all you want to do just so and not otherwise.
Katya Osadchaya / Photo from social networks
For example, we dress up with Pansy. Only two months drew patterns until get the desired 3D effect. Then began to choose different embroidery and combination of colors.
Every time we work up to 12 to 24 variations of color combinations, to eventually choose 23, which will be in the collection. Of course, we use not only manual, but also machine embroidery. And all because it is physically impossible to do everything in manually. One dress we have up to 8 million stitches. Can you imagine how many manually would have to do them? Probably this would take a whole life (laughs).
— Where do you seek inspiration?
I love to read. Novels do not favor, mostly popular scientific literature, history. I love to take in different periods and to consider how would I put this or that historical figure. That is why some of my styles a bit dramatic and exaggerated patterns. Hence, I think, the feeling
It has become very fashionable in Europe that it was impossible to determine the author’s outfit
You can create a dress in one piece?
— Of course. It happens that the customer emphasizes the need not only of the uniqueness of the outfit, but also his anonymity. It has become very fashionable in Europe that it was impossible to determine the author’s outfit — I leave this logomaniya, fashion is to dressed up as advertising.
Although, I think my style is easily “read” even when the thing is not a regular collection. We created the entire the Hetman system. This order takes months. It happens that the whole team a few weeks creates kits for one person. But that to me is the fundamental identity of the customer.
Tina Karol / Photo from social networks
There are people who inspire me very much, because I’m genuinely ready for them to jump over your head. By the way, many designers beyond collection do not go, even to change the color of the product, not to mention develop the concept of the new design.
As for the models, which are presented on the website, of course, are in many instances. Now prevalent clip thinking, so it is very easy and convenient to choose an image from the image, not inventing a Bicycle.
— Give an example when you created some kind of star outfit, but something went wrong.
— I will give an example of one of the most dramatic stories of our team, which occurred with the preparation of the suit for Jamala. We were preparing for her white Cape and dress for the appearance on stage on the occasion of the start of the Eurovision song contest in Kiev. And just a couple of days before the event we unexpectedly found a huge yellow stain on this outfit. Where it came from, I still don’t know.
Anyway, almost finished the instance had nothing to alter. Literally the work was carried out around the clock. Of course, we had all the outfit Jamala made a splash, so our victim was justified and rewarded with the attention of many.
— It is interesting to understand the mechanics of your collaboration with the stars. It you ask them to wear your dress and make thereby advertising the brand, or they just purchase the outfits of your collections, and then sincerely thank you, indicating the name of the designer?
— Again all different. All depends on the personality of the star. There are artists who choose and buy clothes, and later in social networks are indicative of our brand, even without any requests. Of course, it is very nice. There are artists with whom we have long been friends, and they really love our clothes.
Liliya Rebrik / Photo from social networks
For Example, Olga. But I never asked anyone something to advertise. In life in General can not impose anything — no love, no friendship.
— Brand your name dress up and many international celebrities. It often happens that you know that they buy your outfits? And was very surprised that Patricia Kaas at concert in Lviv came on the scene in your embroidery?
For me it was also a surprise (laughs). Unfortunately, I never got to the concert in Lviv (late plane), although we had vouchers from Patricia. The singer was in Kiev and visited our store.
In life we cannot impose anything neither love nor friendship
Interestingly, when I called her Manager on Sunday morning and said that Patricia Kaas wants to come to us and choose the dress, I initially thought that I was kidding (laughs), because I listen to her music since childhood and just could not even in my wildest dreams imagine that I would get to knowher.
Patricia Kaas/ Photo from social networks
It turned out that Patricia has been following behind our collections at Farfetch, but can not determine the size, and therefore wanted to visit our store to live all to try. In the end, she chose four dresses and one of them actually wore in Lviv. When hall saw Patricia in the embroidery — just roared.
Really looking forward to her next visit. I can say that this amazing man. She has a perfect figure, leather, very lively “boy” energy — it is, however, in everyday life, reminiscent of a teenager. As for other stars, sometimes we know that our dress was in the collection of the artist, but often we’re surprised.
— Many entrepreneurs produce a Wi-Fi embroidery in the form of synthetic t-shirts at a price that is ten times less than your. What do you think about this?
When fashion comes to the masses, that’s fine. Especially if it is the Ukrainian fashion. In General, I think that should be a state program that would support our design and helped them to promotion exporters. After all exporters bring money to our country.
It could be tax breaks, and subsidies. There are many examples of business development help at the state level. Especially if you build a “green” company – in some States, you can return up to 70% of the equipment cost.
Because of this enterprise in the country there will be many new jobs, and thus eventually the country will benefit from it. Smart and hardworking people remain in the country and not coming to seek a better life abroad. And in our country, alas, business is not “fertilize”, he has to grow through the asphalt. I believe that in the near future in our country will be more favourable business and investment climate.
Jamal / Photo from social networks
Thanks to embroidery your name is being spoken around the world. By the way, how do you feel about the competition?
— Competitors are treated with respect, but I’ll tell you sincerely, I do not have time to monitor their activities. The problem is — many openly copy. We counted 42 (!) the company in Ukraine, which brazenly steal our ideas. And I do not consider even abroad.
There we are copying is already in Kuwait and Qatar, and Saudi Arabia, and China, and India. Moreover, they went so brazen that I copy my pictures from personal pages and offer to sew something similar. We are trying to deal with them, appealed to lawyers, but the legislation of Ukraine I did in this situation cannot defend.
42 and to hold court only in our country, instead of to work, I’m not very eager. But I have collected all these companies in the daddy – and be sure to prepare actions: for each and all. If the law is unable to protect creativity in all its forms, we, despite the fact that we have civil law, try to create such a precedent.
— I think, but on the eve of national holidays the number of sales of your stocks increases significantly, or is it not so?
— Honestly, directly dependent on holidays we do not notice. More dependent on the weather (smiles). When it gets warm, many people just decide to dress up and come to us for something new.
— It is true that the brand never discounts?
— Yes, because our shirts are often designer clothes that can be passed down through the generations. Our concept is that we have new and old collections. For regular customers we can make allowances, but they are minor. The only cases where we literally twice as reduced prices was during the charity event. In the end we managed to collect the required amount and send the rest of the sea children of fallen soldiers ATO. For this case I’m willing to make an exception.
Olga Sumskaya / Photo from social networks
— What is the most expensive and budget dress of your collections?
— In the first line the prices start from 8 000 UAH. We have also created a family line, where prices are much more pleasant, she is only a month. The fabric quality is tremendous, but these models just less than embroidery, and it is not so expensive.
It is important for me that the thing was running long, so it should be quality and natural. I’m also very careful and attentive to our environment: separate garbage, use a hybrid vehicle. A question of quality clothing is also in this regard relevant: after all, today we are seeing blatant overproduction.
Cheap t-shirt made of synthetics after 3-5 socks, even with the embroidery pattern you will throw a linen shirt with a neat pattern, but a little more expensive, can be worn for years. I think there is a difference.
— When a young girl successfully develop a career, many believe that it’s all thanks to the sponsor who invests in her money, or rich parents. Who has helped you or helps in business development?
— This is a common stereotype. If you drive into Google my name, the first thing people care about is “Yulia Magdych personal life”, “Julia Magdych husband”, “Yulia Magdych father” and then “Yulia Magdych shirts”. While the shirts only in fourth place, but I aspire to change that (laughs). So, I’ll tell it like it is.
Any successful business regardless of swelling sizes, based on the super and smotlacha
Your current business I started with 2 thousand dollars. Without a single dollar of outside influence. All equipment, all machines, all that was at the origins of my business was nurtured from this amount. Of course, it was hard at first. The first few years I worked at all without leave, often for months without days off.
Jamal / Photo from social networks
Any successful business regardless of swelling sizes, based on the super and slotdata. And faith in you others. So, if someone of the readers of the newspaper “Today” has in mind the successful, in his opinion, a business plan, but has not yet the money for its implementation, I’m ready to help!
Interested to discuss and help the same amount with which he started once myself. Can even contest like this to announce if there will be a lot.
Great idea, Julia! And finally, what are the names of celebrities who had not yet been seen in the embroidery, created by you, but whom you would dream to see. For example, the handsome Jude law or Leonardo DiCaprio?
— I need to think. As for DiCaprio. Once I even danced with him at the disco, however, I have not created the shirts (smiles). Otherwise, he would have certainly went.
Earlier, we told where to buy the most beautiful embroidery.
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