A night spent aboard the Climatographe du Mont Aigoual

Les chambres des météorologues telles qu’à l’époque.

Le Climatographe a passé sa première année.

Sunrise at the Climatographe, a marvel.

From up there, you can see a quarter of France, from the Alps to the Pyrenees, in good weather.

Les abords du Climatographe sont l’occasion de balades.

De nombreuses randonnées sont au départ du Climatographe.

Perched on top of Mount Aigoual, the Climatographe, a climate change awareness center and climate testing center, is celebrating its first anniversary. Its director Laurent Bonnard invited Midi Libre to spend a night there. Magical.

“You are going to do what many people would like to do: spend a night in the Climatographe”,summarizes Laurent Bonnard to your humble servant and a few scientists, who are preparing to spend a little less than 24 hours in the bowels of the center for interpretation and awareness of climate change. A real ship nestled at the top of Mount Aigoual for 130 years and which is preparing to deliver its darkest secrets to us.

17 hours. Debrief in the corridor that crosses the building and serves as a dining room, with its large wooden table. Right next door, the kitchen, shared by three permanent employees, two seasonal workers, volunteers and visiting scientists, artists or journalists.

A “Shining” atmosphere

On the dark wooden ledge of the paned windows sit a few flower pots. They withstand the extreme conditions that can prevail here, at a height of 1,567 m. The decoration remains sober, the floors are not (yet) used to welcoming the public. A wide black wooden staircase leads to each of the three levels. “When clouds pass by, we are completely in the fog here, describes Éric Gosse, volunteer, former meteorologist, in early retirement. It feels a bit like we are in the films “The Shining” or “The Name of the Rose”… but it ends better.”

Hotel reception in the boxes

When it was built, the place was a forest observatory. Then, from 1943 to 2023, a meteorological observatory. "For meteorologists, it was an almost monastic life, recalls Laurent Bonnard. They were sometimes cut off from the rest of the world for several days, trapped by the weather conditions."

18 h 30.This Monday, August 12, the conditions are ideal. So much the better because the goal of the evening is to chase shooting stars. In the meantime, I discover my room. Rustic but not without a certain charm. The rooms are as they were when the meteorologists still lived in the station. Wood paneling, a chair, a wardrobe, a large bed and a few photos of clouds. “As soon as it snows, everyone wants to come here.” The elected officials would like to create a hotel reception within the walls of the observatory. "There, it is in its original state but we are going to review the volumes, perhaps have an architect work to create six to eight rooms and open to the public a stay experience that is in high demand, winter and summer." The financing plan is far from being established.“It is a wish of the elected officials but it should not be realized before 2030. First we must ensure the activity. That will be the next step.” Before that, we must also amortize the 800,000 euros injected by the community of communes (4.5 million euros of public money injected in total, co-financed at 80%).

“Unforgettable”

20″hours. “When you have spent a night here, in peace, it is always unforgettable”,I had been warned. I confirm. The environment, first. From the top of these ramparts, toads, a flock of sheep, vultures and other birds look down on you. A breath of nature. Then, the meeting, the discussions and the meal with the team. Suddenly, the corridor comes alive and the image of the Shining hotel is already far away. We laugh there, we talk about the Cévennes, scientific research or personalities who have passed through here. “What's great here is that you meet lots of different people”, exclaims Virginie, a seasonal worker this year with her daughter Nina. 

Midnight. When night falls, the bravest (of which I am one, please don't doubt it!) venture to the top of the crenellated tower. Head for the stars. The sky of the Cévennes does not usurp its title of international reserve of starry sky.

 

A place of sharing

While I count the shooting stars, Eric admires "a flash of lightning in the Pyrenees", in the distance. Meteorologist for a day… The tourists and locals who come all day to discover the Climatograph are still there. A man from Ganges tries to adjust his telescope to the disappearing red crescent moon. Fleeting moments. As the night goes on, the number of stargazers diminishes. It is time to go to sleep. No network in the room. No more excuses. Sleep.

6 h 30. Waking from a heavy sleep, I risk a glance at the shutter that I left ajar. The sky is turning pale. I get out of bed (the meteorologists were sleeping on real clouds!) and settle down at the last minute outside, in the grass, looking east. Some lovers have beaten me to it. In the distance, the bells of a flock of sheep on their transhumance resonate. Camera in hand, I watch the sunrise. A grandiose spectacle.

9 o'clock. After falling asleep for a few minutes, I find my colleagues of the day in the dining room. The discussions continue. But the time comes to say goodbye. The Climatographe team wanted to make it a place to meet and share. It's already done.