In the center of Hérault, winegrowers and winegrowers dream of obtaining their AOP Languedoc Pézenas appellation

Languedoc Pézenas wines are linked by the presence of basalt and similar hilly landscapes, here between Neffiès and Caux. Pézenas Terroir Union

Winegrowers and viticulturists learned about the progress of the AOP appellation file during the 3rd general meeting. Pézenas Terroir Union

Jacques Bilhac, du domaine de l'Aster, à Péret, est le président du syndicat Terroir Pézenas. Diane Petitmangin – Midi Libre

Les vignerons espèrent décrocher le précieux label AOP (Appellation d'origine protégée) auprès de l’Inao afin de dynamiser leur activité, fédérer les acteurs économiques et politiques du territoire et développer l’œnotourisme.

"When we think of Saint-Émilion or Chablis, we immediately think of wine. This is what we would like, in the long term, with Pézenas. Let the city summon not only Molière or artistic crafts and heritage, but also and above all the quality wine that is produced there. While the states generals of Languedoc Pézenas were held before the holidays, Jacques Bilhac, the volunteer president of the Terroir Pézenas winegrowers' union, looks back on this third edition, a bearer of hope.

The file to obtain the AOP (Protected Designation of Origin) is, in fact, well underway and the winegrower from Péret (domaine de l’Aster) is counting on the end of this year to finally win the precious sesame. Benefiting since 2007 (for 2006 wines) from the Languedoc Pézenas denomination for its red wines, the union tirelessly defends its terroir, which may seem atypical and disparate at first glance but reveals itself to be harmonious and homogeneous in its wines. This is due to the rather volcanic nature of its soils, crossed in particular by basalt flows (read below).

A terroir that can seem disparate

"This homogeneity was further accentuated this year since we tasted Syrah and Carignan from several estates before blending – Languedoc wines being blended wines – with similar characteristics. And in this month of January, it will be the turn of the Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache to go through the collective tasting mill. The Languedoc Pézenas wines have this particularity in that they offer great finesse to the level of tannins. These are supple wines, "which are drinkable from the start but which can nevertheless be kept" and which gain maturity as they age.

Basalt, link of the appellation

Typicity. Basalt, volcanic rock resulting from the cooling of magma in contact with air or water, is the link of this terroir which extends over nearly 1,500 hectares, whether it is the majority through large flows or present in small touches only alongside Villafranchian pebbles, schists , limestone or sandstone, ashes or scree (black pebbles).

The shaped landscapes are also quite similar, made of small valleys and gentle hills, inverted reliefs (geological phenomenon of erosion) as well as planezes (plateaus of ancient lava). Most often covered with a thin layer of earth, these flats shelter characteristic vegetation, quite puny and lunar, with lots of wild grasses.

Winning the Holy Grail of AOP would allow winegrowers and viticulturists of the appellation to establish the brand image of their wines, gain notoriety and develop their economic activity, particularly around wine tourism. "Most of our vineyards are estates of 3 to 4 hectares, even if we range from small owners to large groups, notes Jacques Bilhac. Very heterogeneous profiles like our soils…"

An additional difficulty

It is therefore difficult to exist on your own, outside of any appellation or guarantee of recognition. Particularly in these troubled times when wine professionals are faced with the vagaries of climate change ( drought, floods, hail) and a general drop in consumption. The territory of wines does not necessarily follow that of men – in any case, that of their administrative borders – Languedoc Pézenas straddles the cantons and communities of communes.

"Our goal is therefore to bring together all the political, institutional and economic actors of the territory to give it the means to live fully and to make it an economic center that benefits everyone.  Obtaining the AOP would make it a wine tourism reference, combining the discovery of wines, heritage and local culture. "We could even set up an emblematic sporting event". The future will not lack imagination!

A beautiful identity card

– The terroir The Languedoc Pézenas denomination only takes into account red wines and covers 1,500 ha. It stretches over fifteen communes located north of Pézenas, from Fouzilhon to Lieuran-Cabrières and from Paulhan to Montesquieu, from the Hérault river to the east and to Faugères to the west, Pézenas included. "We preferred to rely on the name of Pézenas, which is known, rather than creating one from scratch. Especially since the city is synonymous with quality. There are 40 estates and private cellars and 4 winegrower collectives.

– The grape varieties The grape varieties are eminently Mediterranean: syrah, grenache, mourvèdre, cinsault and carignan.

– L’Association Nature ignoring administrative borders, the Languedoc Pézenas region crosses two districts, three cantons and two communities of municipalities. "We therefore created an association, Eruption of a Territory, in order to bring together, in addition to the winegrowers, all public and private actors: politicians, institutions and business leaders… So that all the world comes together around the same table. 

– Process Holder of the name since 2006, therefore, the Terroir Pézenas winegrowers' union considers today “to be able to manage the appellation. We presented our file to the Languedoc Wine Union and we will submit it in January to the Inao (National Institute of Origin and Quality) in Montpellier. The examination will then be carried out at the regional and then national level. The latter will then send a delegation to meet the winegrowers. "And at the end of 2024-beginning of 2025, we hope to finally obtain the AOP. That's 20 years later.